Miles of Alaska --advice - How to page

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Introduction--first topic just scroll page down a notch - a good place to get started no matter what your question

I read somewhere at a show on a brochure that 70% of all art and artifacts on the market are misrepresented. Many non native business people create and sell 'Indian art' or 'artifacts' because there is so much money in it. I honestly find it a little irksome that I'm white- and as such - because of my skin color my art will not sell as much as it would if I had 'Indian' written in my brochure. I could ask twice as much money. Cool huh. Many people are married to a native American and do the work and sell it under the partners name. There are laws effecting legal use of animal parts that have to do with what color you are. An eagle feather in the hands of the wrong person is worth 20 years in prison- to be an Indian solves that minor detail. How to deal with that? Wellit helps to buy from an Indian. If not then reputation becomes everything. Does the person selling look like they might have connections with real Indians? Would you buy a diamond from a dumpster diver in a back alley? Probably you will not find real Indian stuff in Wallmart- or Jellystone park. Just a hint. Other then that-- they can be impossible to fake. Look for a signature. If possible some contact for the artist a picture- a address etc. Look for plastic. If advertised as traditional ask yourself where these material would be available in a traditional way to the Native. Is it factory tanned cow hide? Has the doll got a plastic face? Are the beads made of crap? Is the stitching had sewn? There are all indicators of 'age' and 'tradition' unl;ess you are seeking a tourist souvenir. Arrowheads are often modern made - often only an expert can tell. If spending a lot of $ it might be worth having an expert look at it first. Artifacts. Well in my business of restoration I have to fill and recreate missing parts in order to make jewelry from it sometimes. There are indeed a lot of secrets. I wouldn't know where to begin explaining. On old carvings--look for slight marks that indicate what sort of tool was used. If you see circular symmetrical scratched it might indicate use of a fordom tool (and not a flint blade) holes drilled in the old way would not be very uniform. The inside of the hole would show modern drill marks. One thing to consider is to ask yourself the difference in value between a modern and an old and if there is a lot of $ difference someone will try to fake it or misrepresent it. On teeth claws - how do you know if it is what you are told? Some extreme basics. Teeth are white- claws are black or brown. Teeth are hard like your teeth- claws are made of animal like your finger nail. I meet a lot of people- even shops galleries who do not know the difference and am amazed.... (anyhow) Is it a lion claw or a jaguar? Only an expert can tell but if it is a 'large cat' and the value of each is the same it is not likely anyone would purposely misrepresent it. If the tooth or claw is 'something huge' ask yourself what the possibilities are (what else could it possibly be?) Porcupine claws look just like hawk or eagle claws but are legal. (interesting huh? smile) Not much else looks like a grizzly claw except a plastic one. If in doubt get an independent opinion. I myself offer references and other expert contacts if you wish to get another opinion on something. There are just not a lot of people in the world who know lots about animal body parts. Many shops- suppliers honesty do not know themselves what they have except what they have been told.

Introduction to the Handling of Raw Materials
Before I can talk about how to take care of raw materials I have to put a word in about attitude toward the material and to do so - tell 2 stories.

When I first came to Alaska as a greenhorn in 72 as a punk kid I wanted a houseboat built- originally a steam paddle boat. I found a knowledgeable builder and I worked under him all winter getting this boat built. First he helped me design it. We had a plan and we cut the wood and we steamed the wood to start bending it to the design. We have trouble and he stops as we are pulling and grunting and says to me "The wood doesn't want to do this- it wants to do something else so we have to change the design" I was shocked that an expert would say such a crazy thing. I ask "So who is the boss you or the wood?" (How absurd-and what if the match factory says "I'm sorry this tree doesn't want to be matches- we'll have to shut down for a while to appease it's spirit! Ha! How far would civilization get?") I assumed this was a polite way to put the blame someplace else cause he screwed up. He chuckles and says "Sometimes the wood is the boss- yes." He goes on to say "There are designs the wood likes and enjoys being- and if you follow this- the boat will be happy and serve you well. If you force the wood to be something it doesn't want to be and can't be- the boat will fall apart"
The houseboat is 25 years old or so now and It has been sunk 3 times been loaded to within an inch of the waterline- been stuck- yanked - run into river banks- covered thousands of miles and is still here. Last year a truck was hooked to it with a chain and it was drug without a trailer down the road to my house and it held together. I often think of the old man's words. Any ordinary boat would have come apart the first year I abused it.

Story #2

I met an old Eskimo artist when I was first in Alaska at age 19. We were both going to the same art gallery. He could not speak English. By way of his son acting as interpreter he tells me I do nice art work. I was touched-that first there was a age barrier- then a cultural barrier. I could not speak to him with words but through art- I had said something to him. Part of me was unsure of my art but part of me was like 'Johnny' in dueling banjos. When meeting the devil he says "It might be a sin--- but my name in Johnny and I'm the best that's ever been" So-to be polite I ask this Eskimo to show me what he is bringing to the gallery. His work was humbling. Quite different from anything I would do though. It was a full 3 ft white walrus tusk-and the only thing on it was a very small man in a kayak scrimshawed. A man alone in the vast big white wilderness. What surprised me was that it had a modern look to it and could have been done by a new age artist and be sitting in a New York museum as modern art. I asked him where he got such designs and ideas (you know being so out of touch with the rest of the world so far up there in polar bear country and all…). The son had to interpret his chuckle and slow explanation as a grandfather to a child giving lesson number one on how to walk. "It is not my idea. The material tells me what it wants to be and I release it's spirit." I found that 'interesting' maybe profound but felt it had to do with him and his art and I might remember it but it has little to do with me. I'm not into hocus pocus - voodoo spells spirits in the ivory - just a quaint idea of an old man. Even so-I would tend to go to my material with a blank mind-and simply start working and let my mood- the materials the designs of color and contrasts work at my imagination.
I found out 30 years later this Eskimo is held in awe by his people and was perhaps the best shaman in the history of his race and his name is spoken with the greatest respect. That I had even met him and that he had even taken time to look at me was 'impressive'. It would be like the white man saying he had met Jesus. Well-all these years later-between those 2 stories is more advice and wisdom then all the art courses you could hope to take in a lifetime. If you hear nothing else I say about how to take care of material-remember these 2 stories. So-it is ok to push the limits of what the material can be and cannot be but in the very long haul that takes ability. It is better to start with designs and projects that complement the material. An example of what I mean is mammoth ivory. It is old. It creaks and groans. It's beauty is in it's age. Do not ask it to be strong and young. It will fail you. It is made to be looked at. The very best quality -like the top 1% can be things like knife handles- to be 'used'. It probably will not crack or release it's stress on you. But the other 99% --well every time you drill a hole in it- move it from one climate to another - even as much as one room to another. It freaks out. It may crack - twist. It can handle it but do it slow and easy . and it really does help to think of it as 'old' and even a step further 'spiritually old' For is it not true-that if you stare into the polished surface long enough you can hear the rumble of the mammoth herd-smell the sedge grass- see the footprint in the mud filling back up with water? And if you can't? I suggest you stare at your material longer before working it. But yes that may take a year or twenty-or may never happen-so meanwhile back at the ranch…. You just want to fill an order for someone who needs a tooth 'yesterday' and there is no time for song and dance! Humph! I understand perfectly! I'm in business too after all! I smile and ok lets get down to reality….

I give free lessons!
 Many people ask me how I do my work and I am glad to show them. I say "I can show you in an hour how to use the basic tools." I then say "Now take this knowledge -- and when you have made 10,000 pieces- come back to me for your second lesson" I mean no disrespect. This is not a joke even. But really-what does one say? If we see a gorgeous house and go to the architect and say "Wow! How did you do that-show me!" He would say? "First you go to college for 10 years…." Then of coarse you have to have the gift to begin with. I used to have friends who were poor like me who saw me selling at local bazaars and say "Wow- great idea I think I'll make stuff and sell it" Like-it's all some sort of scam. Lesson number one.. There is no free lunch. If you can't use a fork ya can't take advantage of the free food. But ya it helps I guess to start with a few of the basics to get started. Where to begin- what do you want to know?
Why?
So why would I want to help out-in that if you got the gift you don't need advice from me-and if you do not have the gift- you need to be doing something else in life. Several reason. My customers arrive in all forms. There are kids who are in awe of wolf claws and want one- just to put it in their pocket! (because after all is there anything more cool in the entire world?). With a smile I want them to be happy so they need to know a few basics on what to expect from this claw.
Some will take it a step further and consider drilling a hole in it so they can wear it and think this is easy so why pay me $30 for a finished claw when they can have a raw one and drill their own hole for $10! But when the bone falls out of the center they want a refund - it's my fault. They will never buy from me again and will tell all their friends what crummy stuff I sell. Why not be kind and tell you what you needs to know- so I can keep a customer? And heck-is there anything in the world more satisfying then setting someone on a path that you think is so wonderful you feel sorry for the rest of the world for not being on it? I respect and treasure my materials as 'special' and 'exciting' and it breaks my heart to see top quality material get misused and turn to crap. Beyond a customer calling it my fault - is the knowledge of what could have been - that now is not. It bothers the heck out of me to see miners find mammoth tusks - dig them up with the bulldozer and toss them up on a gravel pile to deal with later. Later in the hot sun it falls apart into $10 a pound material when it started out as a specimen tusk worth 20 grand. The world is filled with number 2 grade-but everyone wants number one grade. All it would have taken was 5 minutes to put a hose clamp around it or twist wire around it and set it in the shade. I'm in the repair- restoration business and it can be heartbreaking- seeing what happens to materials out of ignorance. I'll do my best to fill your needs. You want the very best money can buy-I have it or can get it but you'll pay-the best isn't cheap. If you want the rock bottom lowest price I have that as well. But I want you to know what you are getting so we both understand the advantages and disadvantages in your choice- and so you do not feel ripped off later.

Special care to
Fossils
 Most fossils are old. As such they usually need special care of some kind. 2 things are most common. Damaged areas and inconstancy in hardness. See 'damage problems' below. The soft and hard places requires that you sand and polish by hand and take care to notice the difference in how the surface is reacting. There are ways to deal with the soft places - like using superglue or vacuum the material in various secret ingredients to enhance and harden the soft places and microscopic flaws so it may be carved or polished. (depending on the use of the fossil and what it is). If you have never worked fossils I suggest you acquire something inexpensive and try it out and learn so if it falls apart you will not be at a great loss. There is no really simple method to toss out as the way to do it. 'Superglue' is the single word to get started with. You'll learn there are commercial grades of it and where to get that but to get started it is enough to know the word and know better exists. It is also good to brace up your fossil before you work it at all. Look for cracks and fill with the superglue- fill in soft spots with dust and glue - vacuum in glue if you know how. and have the equipment. Fossils- all material has a grain or a weak line and a strong direction. Almost always you need to seal edges. It is common to have to back it with something like inlay it- or use a art metal design- wire wrap etc or have a design where some other material helps protect it. Some items can be drilled and a wire run it's length to add strength - a wire that ends up as a necklace bail or is inconspicuous.

Mammoth Ivory
 The most sought after part of the mammoth tusk is the 'bark' the outer layer that is harder and more stable then the interior of the tusk. It is often separated from the tusk as the only part found. It is the last part to decay. Usually it has the most sought after colors. The sought after colors of blues blacks greens are caused by 'vivianite' (I'm told) some chemical process - an interaction between the blue clay it set in and the white ivory as mineralization sets in, In another million years it would be all mineral and 'stone' this is just the first step in that long process. There is this light blue powder found on the ivory that I hear is a phosphorous that has something to do with the colonization. This color layer can be deep or as thin as the color layer in opal - 'microscopic' a light sanding can make it disappear or make it come out stronger. Only experience can show when to stop or where the color vein will lead within the ivory. A reputable dealer can sell you high grade material that is most likely to have deep colors. The inner ivory can be spooky. It may or may not hold up to carving or jewelry work . Many gave up or turned to other safer material for carving when the mammoth ivory 'blew up' on them and a gallery returned it. It is tricky and not recommended for those who can't write off the loss or who have no experience and can't afford the loss. Many knife makers have decided to buy the knife scales already made rather then make their own. It can be worth the huge cost of the scales if you buy ivory and ruin it and have to start over. Or as I just found out. -- I weighed roughed out knife scales and it took a pound or ivory to make one set to scales. So the pound would sell for $80 and so will the set of scales. So I'm not making any money making scales --who would have thunk that! It is of coarse a very interesting powerful material filled with legends and history and worth the problems it has. Mammoth ivory is used most often for displays of large pieces as is- cut up for small pendants and used as knife handle material.
Finding mammoth ivory

Mammoth ivory is usually found cold and wet. The majority of tusks in the world are found as a side issue in the mining or excavation industry. Usually in the colder climates where there is permafrost. (Siberia and Alaska etc) If you find a tusk-- the single most important thing is to keep it out of the direct sun. If someone offers you a tusk (like on Ebay) Make sure to ask how long it has been out of the ground! It looks so great when still frozen ands wet--and if not handled rigbvht goes for $100 a pound material to $10 a pound. Do not let the value drop while it is in your hands! It is good to put hose clamps or wire around it to stop it from expanding when it dries or 'changes and adjusts' to it's new environment. One more thing is to coat it with something-I like half elmers glue and water. The glue soaks into the pours and dries-sealing it so the inside dries slow and helps hold the outer layer together. Later, much later like a year -mineral oil can be used- but never engine oil. Store it in a dark cool place in a plastic bag. Slowly allow air into the bag over a one month period. It can take an entire year to fully cure a tusk. Much of the end value of mammoth ivory is in the quality which is based on how it has been treated the first year . the value can easily go up by 4 times or more by treating it right. I once had a tusk that might have sold for $2,000 green that ended up selling for $26,000 because I handled it so well. Be careful when buying mammoth ivory that it is dry or it will crack a lot after you buy it. Wet ivory will be heavier - you just have to have experience or buy from a reputable.
As art pieces mammoth ivory handles much like hard wood. The same tools are used (pretty much) Not quite because it has a grain different then wood but you can get started by treating it like a hard wood.


Claws
 Claws are easier to deal with then teeth and require the least amount of special equipment. They can be handled with sandpaper and steel wool if need be and made into jewelry with a simple screw eye. The single most important thing to know about claws is that they have an inner bone and this bone can come out. On the animal the bone is held in with sinew and gelatin-but this melts when boiled and the hull wants to expand and 'so' this weakens the bond between the bone and hull. If you buy 'raw' claws be sure to check that the bone is going to stay or run superglue down along the bone to be sure. When drilling at  home it is usually best to drill on top and use a screw eye rather then drill through the side  Why? Well -the hull  grows in layers 'growth rings' and if you drill through these layers it is possible to separate the layers around the edge of the hole. If you are not careful this comes unraveled later-causing splits in the claw or a rough edge that cuts the cord it is strung on - or - while drilling the bit grabs a layer and spins it off in a flake. Some claws are more susceptible to  this then others. The worse are older claws.  Many people do not like the aesthetics  of 'that bone' showing. It is to rustic looking and so it can be wise to 'cap' it. (see 'capping' below) It often enhances the value and can make the claw stronger (no possibility of that bone coming out) / Claws are a good choice for beginners with few tools and limited knowledge. A good mark up can be made just using a screw eye and cheap chain or a glued on bell cap and chain . If a claw is dried and still has fur on it soak it in water and dish soap for a day then boil it an hour or so and see if the hair pulls off. If boiled to long the claw itself will cook to much and get weak so keep an eye on it. Bleach or lye can help but if the simple method is not working it is better to let an expert do it.

Opal
 Opals vary in price a great deal by quality and color and origin. Opal is one of the hardest materials to grade. Blacks- reds are worth the most usually-soft blue- violet is not as sought after usually. I talked with a top opal dealer of the world at a big show once-he'd been in business 55 years. I say to him "Excuse me for my ignorance-but I am looking at opals in your case here and I see the $10 ones and in the middle the $100 ones and on the end the $1,000 ones. I 'sort of' see a difference between most of the $10 opals and the $1,000 ones. But I'll be darn is I know a $100 opal from either of the other groups-can you tell me the difference?". He smiles and says "I've been in business all my life and the more I learn the less I know and after all these years I can only say --there is no difference" What does one say to that ? "I see"? So as I understand it opals are worth what people will pay for them. Yes 'some' will hold up better - some will shine more. Someone grades them somehow. Fakes? Well there is 'lab opal' it is made in a factory and is sold in cubes. I use it a lot myself. It can be sliced diced and carved and is consistent all the way through it. It is beautiful. It cost a lot but not quite as much as the real thing from nature. I like it on $100 to $500 pieces. If it were 'natural' the piece would have to sell for $1,000 instead of $100 The price should tell people what it is. The next thing to know about opal is there are doublets and triplets. A thin fragile piece of real opal has a clear crystal cap put on it- to help protect it. It is worth much less but looks good-just not the same class as the solid real thing. One thing to note about doublets is it has to drop into a setting as is and can not be reshaped much
Usually real opal is not consistent in colors and will show 'matrix' some background material that was with the opal in boulder opal this is dark brown rock behind around and often through out . Opal is not supposed to freeze and can dry out - or it breaks--but I have not seen this happen. It does  have internal stress in it and sometimes you can go to work it and it just blows up when the stress is relieved. Not fun when it is a hundred dollar raw piece - now worth a dollar. It pretty much takes diamond equipment to work opal. It can be done however on a limited basis (It is slow but works)_ with just a foredom or dremel using a 2 inch diamond disk and a few diamond shaping bits If you have a foredom or dremel the rest is like a total of $15. I switched to corundum on 2 inch sticky back on a mandrel- wears out fast and does not cut well but works and use zam as a final with cloth or leather. It is a good idea to work slow and or use water on opal as it is cut as if it overheats it increases the chance it will fall apart on you.

Damage problems
Filling cracks
 Crack filling involves areas no bigger then the thickness of your fingernail. If bigger see 'filling gaps'. There are a lot of methods. The most common product is super glue or one if it's derivatives. It is good to take it a step further however. One good method is to put the glue in and then lightly sand over the crack while glue is wet. The dust drops in the crack and makes a perfect color match. While being impressed and thinking how slick this is there are flaws. The superglue is not a really hard material so it can pick up dirt dust and polish rough when buffing and on white material (teeth white ivory etc) it can leave a dark streak. It helps to put powdered dust in the crack and then run glue in and then more dust- I collect dust from previous sanding of the material I work and keep it in jars for this purpose. Buying a glue accelerator helps. -This sprays on the glue and make it set up fast- so it is hard when you sand and less likely to pick up dirt..
Another whole new space age method involves owning a vacuum machine and a liquid thin plastic. Very impressive indeed. For now-all you need to know is 'there are ways' you can inquire or have it done by someone else. It is a little complicated and the final art is somewhat a guarded secret. The fossil people- paleontologists know the most about this. A similar process is a resin that impregnates wood to make products like 'paka-wood' Looks like wood- handles like plastic. Works on fossils- takes equipment.
Filling gaps
Large gaps can be filled with the old stand by-- epoxy. I buy color additives from a taxidermy supply house that adds color to the epoxy. Be sure to clamp 2 sides together if called for to lesson the gap (like on a tooth). For really large gaps like in mammoth tusks I use fiberglass resin - but some use bondo like used in car body filling. I mix ivory dust with the glue to thicken it to a putty to get a better color match. Over fill the gaps and sand to flush. I'm only giving the basics. All this requires experimenting and practice but this should get you going in the right direction.
Reinforcing for strength
Pins-I often drill a hole through 2 sides of 'things' and run a copper silver or brass wire through the hole and let it show as part of a design. This really helps hold parts together. This can be the 2 halves of a tooth a fossil or holding the bone and hull of a claw together. If an item is to be sliced and it has cracks and is fragil it can be soaked in something like fracture sealer (used to seal cracks in stoens sold by gem shops). Under a vacuum is nice but not everyone has that. I sometimes slice mammoth teeth or old whale teeth for jewelry and a vacuum impregnation helps. . A band or wire wrpa helps inlaying it in something helps or using a metal bakcing -setting helps. Try bnot to coat it with glue or sprays. That  really cheapens items and instantly turns it from 'art' to 'junk'. It's a quick and dirty way to fix a problem

Spotting Fakes
 Fakes in general fall into several categories. Ask yourself first- if it would be economically feasible to make a fake. For all fakes are about making money. No one is likely to counterfeit a dollar bill. An exception might be that some fakes might be about 'power' (a spiritual item that really has no spirituality-selling fake holy water for example) or 'prestige' (someone can't afford the cool real thing but hopes for that respect and tried for it by offering a substitute) or 'legality' like selling a cave bear tooth as a polar bear tooth-the cave bear tooth cost as much but is legal-but the polar bear tooth is not legal but is sought after… or offering a porcupine claw for an eagle claw- only a lab can tell the difference-but eagle is 20 years in prison-but who wants a porcupine claw compared to a eagle?
So the first thing would be to identify what area the fake would most likely show up in here. There should be clues. Is the price so questionably low it can't be true? Maybe it's not true. Is there some song and dance story along with it about similar to how the used car was driven by the old lady? Learn to spot bullshit. If it's illegal- hold it in suspect. It's possible to acquire cool illegal stuff 'but' . Does the seller fit the role? (Sleazy looking people in a back alley rarely sell real diamonds- so to speak but very well might have found a broken animal trophy mount in the dump.) Does the seller seem knowledgeable when they should be? (this guy talking about animal parts-does he look like he hunts- or is he much to fat-or skin far to white or?) These are not 'sure things' just 'clues' The bottom line with all fakes is -it simply is not the real thing. It therefore is not quite a breathtakingly gorgeous. It lacks-a certain spirituality. I'm not of the school that advices you to hold it- close your eyes and hum and see if it vibrates (the flower child with a crystal)
Plastic Most if us think we can spot plastic a mile away. Any expert will tell you how darn good plastic is these days. There are bear claws with the right colors weight and one has to look close. There are plastic skulls of all kinds and teeth of every kind- from monkey to saber tooth tiger to whale teeth and they look good- really good. I in fact have seen plastic amber for sale in top galleries as the real thing and met a guy who proudly showed me his gold capped plastic bear claw from a local jeweler he paid top dollar for. He was crestfallen when I said "hell yes it's plastic-first off - it's illegal to sell real bear claws in Alaska and no high profile top jewelry store would touch such a project with a 10 ft pole. (much less let you pay with a check and give you a receipt!) Smarten up! You might get a real one but it will be cash under the table- from someone in a remote village". So-do not think you will know plastic from the real-as if it is easy. Tests? Well-'normally' if you heat it -it smells like plastic-like put a hot pin in it someplace where a pinhole will not matter. I say 'normally' because there is fake amber on the market with amber perfume in the plastic- or even real amber mixed in. I give this advice-if a lot of money is involved and or it really 'matters' and you are not knowledgeable- say this to the seller. "I'd like to show this to someone else for verification" or something along that line and most reputable dealers who want to make the sale and have the real thing will accommodate you. (even if they feel offended by your lack of trust in them). Those who won't do it - that is a pretty good clue.

Fossils
 Dinosaur- I'm not exceptionally knowledgeable here but 'plastic' has not got the weight of stone so is easy to spot by hefting a real stone fossil will of coarse feel heavy. Sometimes there will be one kind of tooth that is more common that someone passes off as a 'rex' tooth that really is not as an art piece it may not matter much 'but'
Ivory white ivory is less legal then fossil so this gives reason to pass fresh ivory off as fossil. White ivory can get boiled in tea or coffee to make it dark. It can be hard to tell. Often the fake is just to uniform in color. Or it simply is not 'gorgeous' like the real thing is. Bone can be passed off as ivory but is lighter in weight and lacks the 'pattern line' of ivory. But very small objects are hard to tell with. There is a difference between mammoth and mastodon ivory but the difference in the hash mark cross sectional line sis like 10 degree angle difference and few would care. Elephant ivory also is different -but more because it is new and will be white and solid- mammoth rarely would be (though some ivory coming out of Siberia lately indicates mammoths being around -not that all long ago…).

Bear parts claws teeth---
 Bear is a state regulated animal -- (mostly not totally like bears on Federal land) though there are a few Federal interventions--but in general are state regulated and as such bear claws and parts are legal to sell in some states and not in other states. Laws change - it is hard to really know for sure. I believe though there are  only a few states that allow the sale of bear parts. Alaska is not now one of them. . Problem was there was a time bear galls had a great value as an aphrodisiac in the orient. Folks were going in business killing bears and only cutting galls out and getting like $1,000 a gall. Now that ''viagra' is around - who needs bear galls? (smile). I hesitate. Entire books can be written on the subject.  I used to mention some 'exceptions'. I decided this  is not smart. I felt like a dead carcass attracting flies. Everybody glommed onto the exception part and told me with raised eagar  hand how they are deserving of gifts bla bla. People swarmed in by the hundreds and all wanted a free bee or deal. I discovered something else in my quest for wisdom. If a mistake is made the law does nto go after the buyer--but the seller. I'm in trouble  not you. Another interesting fact of life is that this is a plastic fake world. We as a society claim we want reality and the real -- but we cant afford it and like--who really wants to know what hot dogs are made of? We want no mess no fuss and cheap. We want a big  mack but who wants to slit the cows throat? The only bear most of us have seen was in a zoo once. Frankly my average customer does not  deserve a real claw. It's like giving a rolls  royce to someone who deserves a bicycle. I'm sadder about this then you are--where  are all the people connected to the land who put their  actions where their mouth is? Peope from the good earth. No, my average  customer is  in the dark and a flashlight is all  they  can handle for light. Giving them a view of  the sun would blind them. So I got 'plastic' to match their credit card. Pretend it's the sun. And if you are as unhappy as I am do not  tell me about it. vote. write proposals to Fish and Wildife.Go to court , hire a lawyer, protest, get signatures.  Go live in the forest like an animal, seek forgiveness for the world we have made. If you can get the laws changed I'd be happy to help ya. Because I probobly have what you want-- but my hands are tied. I'm not going to prison for you. I imagine as well if I got thousands in fines and wrote you "I think you need to send me 200 grand to help out - I was doing  this for you" I think yo would not  know me. That's very sobering. My average custromer wants me to be there  for them but are they my friend? I think not. I have hardend my heart to fit this new brave world I find myself  in after coming out of the woods. (I spent over 25 years alone in the wilderness in an area the size of the state of Rhonde Island with no one else there) Anyhow don't  ask me for bear claws. (smile) Ya I know a great deal about bears and their claws.

Animal parts in general- the law
Well as with bear above- most animals are state regulated. The ones that are not are marine mammals that fall under international treaty and involve in Alaska- whales- walrus- seals.more recently wolf and lynx.  Then any animal that crosses state lines in a migration- mostly waterfowl of all kinds effecting sale of wild bird feathers. Can't really sell wild bird feathers except in Alaska grouse and ptarmigan (game birds that do not migrate) Domestic duck are legal (who can tell the difference?) In general--if an animal can be legally trapped and it's fur sold- then the other parts are also legal to sell -- (considering the animal is already dead- why not use all the parts?) There are some exceptions. Well more and more exception actually. If the world has gone mad it is not a good thing to go around saying so. It's a good way to get lynched.  If my average customer  is a french fry short of a happy meal I smile and suprsize them. . I'm phasing into fossils and gem stones more and more. (and plastic! Let us not forget plastic! I sonet 35 years learing about animal parts and here I am - at the peak of my knowledge peddling. It's disgusting. So do not say a word do not dare! I'm understanding the direction of the laws less and less as civilization moves further and further from it's connection to the land. The more I learn the less I know. Plastic is peace- plastic is the in thing. Plastic is cool. Plastic is environmentally  safe and express concern for the land. Repeat that after me 10 times-- and be a believer.

Most raw materials require some knowledge on how to store work -resell them. This is why they are 'raw' and do not cost as much as 'finished' You save money but you have to have some skills- tools and knowledge. Teeth especially like to crack. Any change in temperature or humidly can cause this- soon after you acquire it. Right off- look at them and superglue any minor crack- then coat in mineral oil or even store in mineral oil for extended time periods before working. If I sell you 'raw and bloody' cut the tooth top off and pull the nerve out - replace nerve with glue- then coat in oil. Claws-- Claws have a bone in them. Sometimes the bone dries out and falls out. Check to make sure bone is in solid and run superglue along bone to make sure it never comes out (like after it is being worn as jewelry!) Sometimes 'hulls' (the claw without the bone) can be had cheaper- fill hull with glue and cap. Ivory hates water- never cut it with a wet drip (like to keep dust down--put up with the dust- or use a fan!) Bones are easiest to take care of. If a first time artist you might try cheaper bone before trying ivory. Capping for jewelry There are several choices and no set way -that is why you are an artist--you choose. Drilling holes in fossil material can take skill.There can be 'stress' internally and this stress can be relieved when drilled and it wants to crack. only experience can tell you the chances. If in doubt try it on cheaper material. Never get fossil material hot while drilling or cutting. Cheap 'bell caps' can be bought at craft stores that can be glued on. A true artist rarely does this but to keep the end price down and turn it out fast it works. A setting-- like a bezel can have prongs or a lip to crimp over the material or a wire wrap of some sort works well. This creates a 'certain look' that you may want or may not. Cast caps are great but require casting equipment. Other material can be set on flat sanded end of your fossil--then drilled and pinned with a scew eye--or a plain screw eye is nice sometimes but requires drilling a hole--but smaller hole then if you drilled to run a chain or jump ring directly through. Inlaying - first you need to cut it uniformly thin- allowing some extra for sanding. This requires a bansaw or cut off wheel or some sort of 'way' to do this or by hand in a vice. Slicing a fossil will usually relieve internal stress and can cause warp or cracking so right after slabbing I oil and set aside for maybe a day to see what it does before putting a lot of my time into working it. There are various stabilizers to strengthen softer or cracked material. Their type and use is usually a secret--but just so you know 'there are ways' (smile) But one fairly well known 'trick' is to save dust from the material while sanding and save it--use this dust to fill in cracks using super glue--sand over the crack while superglue is still unhardened and the sander will drop more dust in the crack and it might be a perfect color. Works best on darker materials. Works to help fill in microscopic cracks in imperfect inlays. Epoxy is the old stand by for inlays etc but takes longer then superglue--and do not buy it as superglue unless you don't know any better-- 'lock tight' is the commercial grade and it all has a shelf life and needs to be kept in the refrigerator to be trustable. There are various thicknesses from runny like water to thick like catsup--and the spray excelerator makes it set up 'right now' and is a big help.

Left- me fleshing the hide from the lynx in my sled to the right- in preparation for drying and tanning


Understanding the price
It is difficult to offer a crash coarse in understanding business. 'But' I have many customers who do not understand 'wholesale' because they have never been exposed to it. Few 'stores' tell you the difference between what they pay for something compared to what they sell it for-- or will tell you the difference between if you buy it retail or wholesale. Many think a 10% difference is plenty and anything more then 20% is a rip off. I have even met those in the gift shop business who think they can stay in business at a 10-20% mark up. Anyone in this business will tell you if they are honest - you have to at least double your money - just to break even. That's life. I don't make the rules. Among a business costs are advertising - utilities- damage- theft- packaging and you add it all up and guess what? Something I pay $10 for cost me $10 to sell. There are people in this business making the most money --who buy it in 3rd world countries for 50 cents and sell it to 'us' for $10. They wont tell you that. But you buy something like a wolf claw from me-- there are only a handful of places on this planet where there are wolves- and it's not Japan. Much of what I have is simply not possible to mass produce. I want to be fair to you- but in return I expect you to be fair to me and my sources and ultimately- respect for the materials. I can not in good conscience go to my sources - usually subsistence Native Athabascan Indians or even in Tucson at the fossil show- people connected to the land who I respect -- and offer them unfair prices . My thought would be that none of us either rip off another group nor suffer in the deal- not the animal- not the hunter- not me -not you. With that in mind - this has the most to do with my prices.
Eagle

Laws

Care

preperation handing preservation issues

Authenticity

fakes replicas pricing verification of quality etc.

Art issues dealing with finished art

Raw materials issues dealing with raw materials

Finished Art Using Animal Part- the Law
First I am not a lawyer and not in the position of giving out legal advice (my disclaimer "Saw nothing know nothing never heard of you" smile. But.. having been in business over 30 years I have a feel for things and have an opinion. In general - the intent of the laws concerning animal parts is to ensure animals survive- balancing that with both a need and a desire for the use of those parts by people. Where I'm coming from 'usually' is the animal parts I deal in the most are byproducts of some other animal killing industry. Food- subsistence money- self defense (bears breaking into cabins for example- or a porcupine in the sled dog yard). The intent of the law is to not support the over killing of the animal - encouraged by selling it's parts. For example the egret that became endangered because of a fad to use a couple of it's long feathers as hat plumes.
Many laws become more lenient concerning a finished art product as apposed to the raw materials business. Many types of antlers and horns I deal with are legal to sell as art but not legal to sell as a trophy. It is much more acceptable for walrus ivory to be an art piece then to be a raw tusk. This is especially true concerning natives and 'traditional rights' Often if the animal product is an insignificant part of a large art piece using other materials there is less of an issue- especially on high end items. Wearing a single piece of personal use jewelry made of an animal product is more acceptable then if you looked like a dealer.
Art made from a legally trappable or food game animal is usually ok. The animal died anyhow- why not use the rest of it after the meat is taken or the hide is used? So my wolf lynx claws that I deal in the most are the most likely to be legal about anyplace. (but not internationally) Fossil material art is even more likely to be legal almost anyplace (see my raw material comments for more info on specific materials )


Jewelry care
Most animal product jewelry dislikes water - so one of the worse things to do to it is to get it soaking wet. Rarely would you ever want to clean it by getting it wet nor wear it in the shower etc. Once wet if it got wet almost all animal materials like to dry slowly in a cool place- so long as it does not 'rot' or mildew. Putting it in a paper bag and in a drawer can help - and open the bag every few days. This will tarnish any metal though.
The best way to clean most animal products is to use some kind of oil based cleaner . The art with metal work can be cleaned with most metal cleaners. Keep in mind that some of the 'black' color made from the metal might get into light colored porous material like ivory - but not teeth or claws so much. Most animal products will hold up to normal chemical cleaners if not saturated. Remember strong chemicals of all kinds tan hides and it rarely effects the claws. Some people use toothpaste, successfully to clean the metals and the animal materials. Amber scratches easily and it's surface could be effected by chemicals so be careful with amber. Opal dries out and water or oil does it good now and then. Ivory bone and teeth like oil or bees wax.
On necklaces the biggest thing to look for is the type of bail. If valuable see if the jump ring is soldered. If not care need be taken it does not open up and come off the chain or have it fixed. Less expensive necklaces may not have a soldered bail as it adds to the price. The chain. It is common to get a pretty much free chain when you buy a pendant. This is a chain that is 'ok' especially for a short time but in the long haul you are expected to come up with a chain of your choice often times. Good chains are a whole separate business and can cost as much or more then the necklace- so many artists - craft people are simply not in the chain business. It is not the best idea to 'coat' animal products with things like verithane- clear nail polish even though it helps take care of the product at first-it sure make it look bad. In time this coating starts to wear off and chip or yellow it then it is hard to remove or fix. Chemical paint removers may not hard the materials but might dissolve the glues used to help hold 'whatever' together. Claws have a bone in the center of them. Sometimes as they dry out this bone can come loose and the 'hull' fall off. If the bail holding your art is fastened to this bone you could loose the claw. So every now and then tug on the claw and see if it wants to come loose form the bone and use superglue to make sure it is not going to come loose on you.

Grizzly claws- see the laws!

He broke chain got loose-had to run him down. I know something about lynx claws!

repair job I did on saber tooth. It was in 3 pieces. I pinned- restored capped turned to art click on thumbnail pic

left a nice amber necklace- but what quality amber? 90% of all amber as well as turquoise has been altered in some way to make it look good. Do you really know what you are looking at? hold cursor over thumbnails above to see text-click to see full view

Mixture of claws and teeth- some are fresh some fossil some are plastic some are legal and some are not. Few gift shops galleries or customers would know one from the other-but one of them is worth 20 years in prison for having. One is worth $150 but it's plasic perfect replica is worth $10. 

click here to go to my site directory with links to all my pages. Art - raw materials for sale- book- advice- tips-ordering- info- home page etc

Miles at Miles of Alaska
box 363
Nenana Alaska
99760
1-907-832-5442 miles@milesofalaska.net

advice law authentic how to repair custom art and raw materials like fossils teeth claw jewelry and appraisal

I am not a lawyer and am not in a position to give you legal advice- that's what lawyers get paid big bucks for. A lawyer or contacting a fish and game office is a good idea if in doubt and worried about it. In any search engine put in 'Fish and Game Laws" followed by the name of your  state or 'Federal'

http://www.commerce.state.ak.us/oed/nag/permitsymbols.htm
This is a good site for Alaska animal products used in crafts


PS 
Fish and Wildlife ordered me to stop giving advice and opinions on laws
 

 

Indian art- Artifacts

Stormbound Trapper A Cassette tape

This is a recorded story by Miles 1.5 hours long talking about winter in Alaska in the wilds. There are sound effects from the wild as I talk about 70 below 0 trapping running sled dogs, hunting moose getting lost and creating the mood of what it is like to be in the wild. $7

How to Cut and paste a picture
You are on my web site and see a picture of something you wish to ask about. You need to get that picture in an email to me so I know what item you are talking about. See 'One man show' under 'issues' if needed. Summed up. I Have a lot going on and 1,000 pictures on my site and I may not have a clue what you are talking about unless I see a picture!
Put the cursor on the picture. Double Right click the mouse. A menu pops up. Choose 'save as' or 'email picture'. Left click and follow the directions. You can save the picture in your own computer to refer to in a file of your choice so you can find it and email from that fine. But easier to just choose 'email picture'. Left click and you might get asked to resize the picture so it is acceptable for an email - choose to do that. Then your email opens up - you put my email address in there miles@milesofalaska.net and send with a note who you are and why I'm getting this picture. You might want to refer to my ordering page on info I need for special orders or inquires. If I have to email back and forth figuring out what you want, you might max out the 'free time' and slip into the $60 an hour or $1 a minute zone. As in “Yikes!” (smile) Hope to hear from ya then. Have a good day.

How to email me a picture from my web site
Link ot my first book,
 
General info on Mammoth teeth
Well mammoth tooth as a artistic material is exotic, rare, fragile, and not for the faint of heart or poor. It is best to experiment with some scraps first. There is a reason slabs that hold up are costing so much money. Structurally the tooth has very hard enamel layers mixed with very soft 'mortar' between the enamel. This mortar can be as soft as chalk. The hard enamel will not be the part that breaks but the softer layers in between. The very best quality will be more uniformly hard but is difficult to come by and will cost more. Knowing how to stabilize and restore comes in handy. The exception is near the root of the tooth below the grinding chewing layers. However the tooth narrows and this root usually has no good dimensions to it. Or, there may be one good slice on a whole tooth that just touches the root and has size enough for a knife scale. One slice from a $400 tooth. Who is going to sell you that one slice? The distribution of the goods of the world follow the laws of priority. Relatives, friends, the rich and famous, regular customers, those who can afford it, those who deserve it as a gift, and those looking for a deal who know how to scam. In that order. If you do not have a connection, probably you will never even see this quality in the raw. The basic stabilizing ingredient is super glue. Beyond that you need practice. It is an art, not a engineering feat. Meaning there are no real rules, you simply develop[e a feel for it. Those who are good at it can make a living doing nothing but stabilizing and restoring. Prices can vary a lot and much has to do with where the tooth is from - indicating how it mineralized. At the moment some teeth are coming from the North Sea at a sort of low price, but experts are having problems cutting and working this material and why it is so cheap. The ones coming from Alaska where I am tend to be better for cutting, have nice colors and be more spendy. This is not generally a material to be looked for by people seeking deals. It's a little like wanting something impressive in the way of a diamond, and adding the word 'cheap' in the sentence. The only way to get an impressive diamond is to put your money down. Keep all this in mind when considering mammoth tooth as a material you want.



Mammoth teeth for pens or lathe turning material
Well my opinion is it would be hard to make a pen from mammoth teeth. Maybe just sections of pens spacers, sections not much over an inch. The solid enough sections tend to be the tooth and the root has no size to it. The larger sections are so fragile I work slow by hand and when a crack appears I stop what I am doing and fill it with superglue to stabilize it and stop the crack. Problem is- the tooth has very hard layers mixed with very soft layers and the soft layers can be like chalk and when you spin a piece under half an inch in diameter and over an inch wide you have crossed in that inch though some soft layers that will want to crumble as you spin it. Unless you stabilize it. You would need to be an expert with this material. I'm only saying as I do not want you to spend a couple hundred dollars and get nothing but crap from it that falls apart on the project. My suggestion would be to order some pieces and scraps that can be lathe turned, used as spacers, used as sections on a knife and you can test it and see what the material is capable of and not capable of and decide from there what to do next. I can offer some nice scraps an ounce or more in size for $7 an ounce. If you got 5 or so ounces it would be enough to play with make some things from and know much more about what you want to order. I can offer different grades some root material some center stuff some nice colors etc and it will all be usable and teach you a lot about the material. If this sounds like a good idea 5 ounces $35 and $6 to ship total to pay pal me is $41. This email is my pay pal account. or can send a check or money order my address is below. Any more questions let me know. Miles PS please note this was a reply to an email and prices may change this is written Oct of 2010. It could be 5 years 10 years before I ever get back here to update it so inquire on price.
Quality price ranges and sizes
. Mammoth tooth tends to be a fragile material and the best is rare and hard to come by (solid with best color). It can be $120 to $150 a set. There is just 'good' quality that holds up is nice color dropping in price fast to $75 and $100 a set. There is material that will work and may have some restoration done or has been laminated to wood so it stays together and is flat in the $50 to $75 range. There is soft or off color that can be used - especially if only sections of the handle will be tooth. This can be quality smaller pieces that broke or near the root with no size but top colors or it can be larger but soft on the $30 to $50 range. I suppose one thing to do would be to show the qualities and price ranges on the web site. Just never enough time to do all I should do. Standard sizes tend to be smaller than mammoth scales. Slightly over 1 inch wide x 2-4 inches long is normal. Bigger usually cost more unless quality is compromised and smaller is often less 4 unless the quality is improved. I have all these various grades as in 10 or so choices. Maybe good to just tell me what you have in mind and I can take a picture of 1-3 sets or so and you pick a set based on if you want the best or just good or large or better quality but smaller etc or what price range. Later then! Miles
Tooth root spoken of above. Left the raw rooth not how small. Right a slice neaqr the root note how sold and filled with pattern it is, but may or may not work for many projects
Left is a slice made just above the tooth. Solid colorful but only one such slice from an entire 10 pound tooth. So it's going to cost.
Above two large mammoth teeth of same weight, look similar and of the same quality but are not.
Looking at an end view of the tooth on the left and above, see how the plates want to separate? This situation needs filler or restoration or stabilizing before slicing or the slices will fall apart
Right shows what I describe above, some teeth have hard enamel mixed with layers of soft chalk. This can work. Note the picture below. Needs to be thick if used. Otherwise note the other pictures. The material wants to come part as shown can be laminated or resin impregnated for more strength.  
A tooth in the shape of the one on the right can be broken or cut 'with the grain' and the left picture os one of the hard plates that has it's uses. It can be harden blue and have all the qualities required for knife makers or jewlers.
A thin slice can be cut like the view on left and laminated to wood showing lamination on the right and above.
A tooth with a crack as one on the left is common. Such a crack is easy to fill with colored resin or filled sliced but cut out later and not used but stops the break from spreading to the good material.

Pricing and grading

The price of mammoth ivory is much like diamonds. . Not so much money wet and dirty right out of the ground covered in mud. Next step washed cleaned then graded usually 4 levels A-B_C_D grade. For rough uncut. The more it is worked the more add on value. The add on value goes up fast. One reason is at each level here can be a mistake or reason to reject. The colors can disappear in a thin layer that gets sanded off. There can be a soft spot or internal crack that suddenly shows up so as the ivory passes each test and more is rejected what is left has the highest value.
I may sell pieces of ivory wet covered in mud right out of the ground for $20 a pound. I only sell this to professionals who know how to treat it. This is washed and banded and slow dried correctly and I see how many cracks it has and what colors it has. I may sell this if it is nice for $80 a pound. Whoever buys and cuts this up may have 50% waste of material when done. But even this level is called �raw� It is bigger pieces that have been properly dried, with mostly good material and maybe a shine put on one surface so we can see the colors.. Usually half a pound to 5 pounds as much as a single 10 pound piece. Usually no bigger. This $80 a pound grade is sold a lot. This grade is cut and worked a little to get a $150 a pound grade. This grade will have no chalk and will all be usable material Perhaps a 3rd of the unusable weight has been removed When this grade is cut into knife scales the end cuts and scraps are my �scraps for $50 to $60� while the knife scales sell by the ounce - ending up being $350 a pound. But these scales may be 1/10th of the weight I started with out of the ground. Much like the rough $100 diamond gets to the jewelry store, cut and now $10,000. Maybe 10 of the $100 diamonds broke when cutting, or had flaws and sold as scraps for cutting tools and never got to jewelry grade..
So there are different levels to come in on when buying, depending on your budget and skill level and how much you enjoy doing the work. It takes skill just to grade ivory as with diamonds. In the rough there are few guarantees. There is always a chance the material is not what we all thought. It might be better, but often it is worse. This is how profits are made when buying and selling. The better you are at grading the more money you can make. The higher the grade and more you pay the less risk and at the $150 a pound grade it is hard to actually loose money unless you really screw it up. But if you can grade good it is also possible to make a lot of money at an of these levels.
It is possible to think you will save money and buy it out of the ground for $20 a pound. But get nothing,- all no good because you let it dry to fast. It is possible to buy the next level dry and cut into chunks for $80 a pound and buy 10 pounds for $800 and get only 2 sets or so of wonderful knife scales .. If you are not experienced and do not know how to cut it. But you could get lucky and get many! I usually figure about a pound of the descent rough to make 1 top quality set of knife scales. - so $80 of material to make a $150 set of knife scales.
It is possible to buy the roughed scales or flat pieces to cut scales and ruin this by sanding through the colors or getting to hot while sanding and it warps or cracks. Getting rough scales to a final knife ready to sell takes ability too. The knife if done well might be worth $1,000, and much of the value might be the beautify ivory in the handle. Thus a professional might be willing to let someone else do all the work and pay $150 for a set of scales to go on a $1,000 knife. It is also possible to take a $150 set of scales and the finished knife is only worth $150.
So when buying you need to know your skill level, what chances you are willing to take, how much you can spend or want to gamble, how well you can grade ivory , how well you trust the supplier to know how to grade ivory and do so honestly.
I only used $20 $80, $150 as examples of value of the grades - to complicate matters out of the ground can range for $10 a pound on up to $100 a pound. The average $80 a pound can be as low as $30 a pound and go on up to $250 a pound. The $150 a pound average can be $80 on up to $500 a pound. Thus almost infinite price ranges. This is one reason I try to offer different grades and levels in a shopping cart to see pictures read descriptions and see the price. It may not be just a matter of if you trust my honesty or not. We may have different images in our head of what a certain grade looks like and what the expectations are. Even among professionals we disagree on the grades and what they mean.

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